Why Test Individual Batteries?
Golf cart batteries are wired in series, so the weakest battery sets the ceiling for the entire pack. If one of your six batteries has a dead cell, the whole cart underperforms — even if the other five are fine. Testing each battery individually pinpoints the bad one.
What You'll Need
- Digital multimeter
- Rubber or nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
Step-by-Step: Testing Each Battery
1. Fully charge the pack and rest 1–2 hours before testing.
2. Set your multimeter to DC voltage.
3. Test each battery individually — probe the positive (+) and negative (−) terminals of each separate battery (not across the full pack).
4. Record every reading. Good cells will be consistent. The bad battery will read noticeably lower.
Reference readings (after full charge and rest):
| Battery Type | Healthy (Fully Charged) | Weak | Failed |
|---|---|---|---|
| 6V | 6.3–6.4V | 5.9–6.2V | Below 5.7V |
| 8V | 8.4–8.6V | 7.9–8.3V | Below 7.7V |
| 12V | 12.6–12.8V | 12.0–12.4V | Below 11.8V |
5. Perform a under-load test if resting voltages look similar: have someone press the accelerator while you probe each battery one at a time. The failing battery will sag furthest.
Interpreting Results
- One battery reads 1+ volt lower than others: That's your weak link
- All batteries are low uniformly: The pack is generally aged and needs replacement
- One battery reads 0–2V: It has a completely failed cell — replace immediately
Next Steps
If you find a failing battery, you can replace just that battery — but be aware that mixing a new battery with older batteries in a series string reduces the new battery's lifespan. Replacing the full set together is often better value.
Questions about what to replace? Call 1-844-844-6638 or bring the cart to any TIGON Golf Carts location for a professional diagnosis.